Back in 2013 or so my PC started having an issue while under load, it turned out that my heatsink had come loose . For a little while I just put a finger on the heatsink when I was expecting load, until I could take the time to fix it more properly. Furthermore, cell phones don’t have any heatsink and need to enter thermal throttling within a second, so this is a mandatory feature for a mobile type CPU.
Continue reading. Reinstall DirectX . If it still doesn’t work, manually download the .ddl file from https://wikidll.com/microsoft/api-ms-win-crt-runtime-l1-1-0-dll
Actually for boards supported by coreboot you can do that. There’s some leeway, but it’s essentially a matter of system load. An idle system might be able to throttle low enough to survive without a heatsink, but a loaded system would output a lot more heat.
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I don’t really play any games more complicated than basic games on my machine than the SGT pack and similar; I have a Gameboy for anything more complicated. My entire OS and applications fit onto a 2 GB SD card, I have a massive stack of them, so I just back up the card whenever my base OS changes. My home directory is hosted on a rooted WD World Edition home NAS, which gets backed up to an external disk plugged into it. When I want to do multi-monitor, I’ve just been using something simple like a BBB and run it as a basic X server.
The term ‘desktop machine’ is very, very subjective. I’ve been fine with the Raspberry Pi as a desktop machine for quite some time. I used a first-gen Pi + Tiny Core Linux as my daily machine for quite some time. Being able to get rid of ThreadX and drive the hardware directly probably would help performance of Pi based applications as after it’s booted it’s just a waste of memory and clock cycles.
- But try unplugging while running a stress test to make sure it doesn’t crash in those cases.
- The same values are generally good enough, but you may be able to overclock slightly further when plugged in.
- If your laptop goes through these tests successfully without crashing, you can lower the offset voltage by 10mV and test again.
And that direct comparison with old hardware on one metric alone is fundamentally flawed, but it is still useful for an gross approximation of what performance to expect. If that’s green 2.5inch Seagate I think it’s rated at 5V 1A, that might be a problem for powering it directly from the Pi, not sure how well RPi handles such current on USB3 ports. I’d test it with some drive that requires less power or power it externally to see if it crashes in that case. Although I have been tinkering with the idea of replacing my entire set up with some small “Smart” TVs, seeing as how many of them already run Linux and tend to be equipped with some fairly high-end chips. Then when its time to clock off, it’s time for some more basic web browsing and maybe some OpenSource development work.
An Atom is similar CPU power to the modern Raspberry Pi. You’re looking at an i3 or above for a significant boost. As large amounts of the time a desktop can be damn nearly idle its often more important how low it goes at idle not the flops/watt.